Question:
Does anyone have recommendations for what type of risers to retrofit on concrete septic tanks? I’ve had a couple of customers request them and have been turning them down, but now I would like to get into it.
Answers:
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I have had good luck with Polylok risers. They have available an adapter ring that makes them easy to install on the tanks.
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As a precaster, we offer concrete risers, but they can be hard to handle, and most folks don’t want a concrete lid with rebar handles sticking up, especially on new systems. An alternative is a product called Ultra-Rib that fits down in our 24-inch round manholes. It can be cut to any length and has a heavy plastic lid secured with screws.
For tanks with odd-size openings, Polylok adapter rings are ready-made for either 20- or 24-inch riser rings. Polylok makes riser rings in 12- and 6-inch lifts that are easily installed. One drawback on concrete or Polylok risers is not being able to cut them to an exact height.
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The precast tanks in our area have two, 21-inch, round-concrete lids that are beveled. Black ABS culvert can be easily cut to length with a hand saw, placed in the hole, sealed with caulking, and the original lid put on top and buried a few inches below grade.
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For tanks that are not more than two feet deep, I prefer precast concrete risers. You just can’t beat the price or durability. If the tank is deeper than two feet, we use the Fralo tank adapter ring, plastic culvert pipe and Fralo lid.
Question:
Has anyone used a grinder pump for whole-house plumbing to carry all waste to a septic tank 50 feet in distance and with 25 feet of head?
Answer:
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You can find a pump to do it, but I’ve been told of studies that show grinding the waste is less than ideal — that it interferes with the normal settling and floating that occurs, and messes with the retention time of solids, allowing more to be passed to the drainfield. A solids handling pump and a little education for the homeowner as to what goes down the sinks and toilets is a better option, from what I’ve heard.
